The Complexities of Victorian Era Fashion
In the Victorian era manners and fashion abound. Defined by Queen Victoria herself it was a time period where manners and appearances were important. It was also considered a time of high morals set by the queen and her prince consort (husband).
At the onset of the Victorian era clothing was still largely made by hand and custom made for those who could afford it. By the end of the Victorian era the inventions of new materials and new machinery meant more clothing was factory made.
American women of the Victorian era (for the Victorian era was also a period in American history) were just as concerned with manners and appearances. Although not necessarily a society of classes as the British, American women that could afford household servants had certain standards to uphold. It was just not done to dress in one’s own ‘style’. There were ways to dress depending upon the occasion and/or place and it was the norm to have a woman make several changes of clothes in one day depending upon the occasion or time of day.
There were morning gowns and mourning gowns, gowns for visiting and gowns for dinner at home. There were weddings, christenings, balls, and gowns for travel. There were gowns for the country and gowns for the sea.
During the heart of the Victorian era in 1861 Isabella Beeton published her famous Book of Household Management where she gave advice on every aspect of home for the genteel woman. She gave the lady’s maid to the mistress of the home these very precise instructions on caring for her lady’s attire…
The Chausserie, or foot-gear of a lady, is one of the
few things left to mark her station, and requires special care.
Satin boots or shoes should be dusted with a soft brush, or
wiped with a cloth. Kid or varnished leather should have the mud
wiped off with a sponge charged with milk, which preserves its
softness and polish. The following is also an excellent polish
for applying to ladies’ boots, instead of blacking them:–Mix
equal proportions of sweet-oil, vinegar, and treacle, with 1 oz.
of lamp-black. When all the ingredients are thoroughly
incorporated, rub the mixture on the boots with the palm of the
hand, and put them in a cool place to dry. Ladies’ blacking,
which may be purchased in 6d, and 1s. bottles, is also very much
used for patent leather and kid boots, particularly when they
are a little worn. This blacking is merely applied with a piece
of sponge, and the boots should not be put on until the blacking
is dry u(a)nd hardened. ~Book of Household Management
Not only was Victorian era costume complex it changed often during the time period. The change of fashion during the Victorian era was a reflection on the beliefs of the people. You can mark the time period in the Victorian history based upon the changes in women’s clothing
And underneath it all the accouterments to hold it up were just as complex. Although not for public view or mixed company the lingerie of a Victorian women is of dizzying embellishments and changed just as rapidly during the era.
We are always most informed of the corset, doing the duties much like our current day Spanx in slimming down the Victorian woman’s physique to sometimes a mere 18 inches and below. But there was also the chemise, crinoline, d for men the ‘union suit’.
In Depth Victorian Era Fashion
Victorian Fashions and Costumes from Harper’s Bazar, 1867-1898 (Dover Pictorial Archives)
Authentic Victorian Fashion Patterns: A Complete Lady?s Wardrobe
