In the Victorian era manners and fashion abound. Defined by Queen Victoria herself it was a time period where manners and appearances were important. It was also considered a time of high morals set by the queen and her prince consort (husband).

At the onset of the Victorian era clothing was still largely made by hand and custom made for those who could afford it. By the end of the Victorian era the inventions of new materials  and new machinery meant more clothing was factory made.

American women of the Victorian era (for the Victorian era was also a period in American history) were just as concerned with manners and appearances. Although not necessarily a society of classes as the British, American women that could afford household servants had certain standards to uphold. It was just not done to dress in one’s own ‘style’. There were ways to dress depending upon the occasion and/or place and it was the norm to have a woman make several changes of clothes in one day depending upon the occasion or time of day.

There were morning gowns and mourning gowns, gowns for visiting and gowns for dinner at home. There were weddings, christenings, balls, and gowns for travel. There were gowns for the country and gowns for the sea.

During the heart of the Victorian era in 1861 Isabella Beeton published her famous Book of Household Management where she gave advice on every aspect of home for the genteel woman. She gave the lady’s maid to the mistress of the home these very precise instructions on caring for her lady’s attire…

The Chausserie, or foot-gear of a lady, is one of the
few things left to mark her station, and requires special care.
Satin boots or shoes should be dusted with a soft brush, or
wiped with a cloth. Kid or varnished leather should have the mud
wiped off with a sponge charged with milk, which preserves its
softness and polish. The following is also an excellent polish
for applying to ladies’ boots, instead of blacking them:–Mix
equal proportions of sweet-oil, vinegar, and treacle, with 1 oz.
of lamp-black. When all the ingredients are thoroughly
incorporated, rub the mixture on the boots with the palm of the
hand, and put them in a cool place to dry. Ladies’ blacking,
which may be purchased in 6d, and 1s. bottles, is also very much
used for patent leather and kid boots, particularly when they
are a little worn. This blacking is merely applied with a piece
of sponge, and the boots should not be put on until the blacking
is dry u(a)nd hardened. ~Book of Household Management

Not only was Victorian era costume complex it changed often during the time period. The change of fashion during the Victorian era was a reflection on the beliefs of the people.  You can mark the time period in the Victorian history based upon the changes in women’s clothing

And underneath it all the accouterments to hold it up were just as complex.  Although not for public view or mixed company the lingerie of a Victorian women is of dizzying embellishments and changed just as rapidly during the era.

We are always most informed of the corset, doing the duties much like our current day Spanx in slimming down the Victorian woman’s physique to sometimes a mere 18 inches and below.  But there was also the chemise, crinoline, d for men the ‘union suit’.

In Depth Victorian Era Fashion

Fashion Era

Victorian Fashions and Costumes from Harper’s Bazar, 1867-1898 (Dover Pictorial Archives)

Authentic Victorian Fashion Patterns: A Complete Lady?s Wardrobe

We’ve come discover that meal planning can save money, time and foster great family relationships here in the 21st century. The time is the very early 1920′s.  Famous Home Economist Christine Frederick author of several homemaking books and magazine articles not to mention a homemaking correspondence course gives the following advice on meal planning …

“Many women admit that while cleaning takes a great deal of time, still it is one of the tasks of the home which can be glossed over, or quite neglected in extreme need. But the three-meals-a-day problem seems the one from which there is no escape. We can leave the windows unwashed if we don’t get time or are too tired, but no matter what the circumstances or how the homemaker feels, the family must eat and so food must be prepared regularly.

Nothing wastes time more or is more inefficient than to let the choosing of a meal go until an hour or two hours before it is to be served. If left in this way until the last moment it is quite sure not to be a “balanced” meal, but one hastily put together, of anything that happens to be in the house or that can be obtained quickly.

Planning meals ahead has definite advantages:

(1) It permits economical marketing in advance, and purchase in larger quantities.

(2) It cuts down the time necessa1y in marketing, as instead of shopping every day for a small amount, marketing is done once or twice a week.

(3) It permits cooking for more than one meal at a time and saves in the use and washing of kitchen tools.

4) It permits food preparation many hours in advance of the actual meal.

If meals are left until the last moment it is likely that someone may have to “run to the store,” or telephone or pay the highest price for some article which is to be included in the meal. The most extravagant way of purchasing household supplies is to purchase in small quantities “by the bag” or by the box from day to day. On the other hand, by planning meals in advance, the materials for these meals can be carefully chosen, a list made, and bought in quantity.

Thus the “purchasing sheet” fulfils the second benefit of meals planned in advance; it prevents the possibility of being “out” of any product needed in the preparation of the meals.”

~Christine Frederick, Household engineering

vintage-woman-stove

In the era of cloth not paper napkins, of tablecloths, and dish cloths it was important to know how to care for those items and preserve them in the best manner.

“A Linen cupboard should be in an airy dry situation to prevent mildew, not against an outside wall.

One shelf should be set apart for table linen, another for bed linen, a third for bedroom and bath towels, others for dusters, tea-cloths, oven- cloths, etc. In order that each article may have its fair share of wear, everything as it comes back from the wash should be laid at the bottom of its own respective pile and the clean supply be given only from the top.”

~Annie Butterworth, Manual of household work and management

In her Efficient Household Purchasing chapter of Household Engineering Christine Frederick advises January as the best time to purchase household linens. The same holds true today.

Mrs. Frederick also felt that there needed to be detailed records of where linens and clothing were stored including the date of purchase, size and number of items (such as bed sheets), and other such distinguishing details written on a card and placed in with other House Records.

Another timely tip, this one on alternative ways to keep bugs at bay from your fine linens came from Practical Housekeeping…

Lacking closets, vintage homes would use an armoire such as this to store clean linens.

Lacking closets, vintage homes would use an armoire such as this to store clean linens.

“In the country remote from drug-stores, many housekeepers use the dried leaves of sage, thyme, spearmint, and other highly scented herbs.  These are gathered after the housewife has laid in all she may require for cooking and medicinal purposes, are tied in bunches and dried, and then laid among the clothes in the large wooden chest ; or a pole is laid from rafter to rafter, and the clothing is hung over this, and casings of calico or old cotton quilts are carefully pinned around each garment, the bunches of herbs being also pinned at intervals about the clothing.” ~Practical Housekeeping 1887